Simon
Jenkins is a well known figure on the British canal system and has
been a boater for decades, living on, working and owning boats and,
for the last couple of decades, the managing director of Norbury
Wharf on the Shropshire Union Canal.
He
is back from the boat buying trip of a lifetime, bringing his first
historic barge back to Belgium, from the shores of the Mediterranean.
Last month he came
up against manual locks which took him onto another of Europe’s
major waterways and an angry Frenchman. Now he is approaching his
destination and the Ardennes is coming up
This is his story, in his own words.
The
Canal de la Marne au Rhin is 289 km long and has 127 small locks,
although we would only be doing a relatively short section of it and
a few locks. As we turned onto this canal there were a lot more
boats, and people boating. This was the first time we had seen so
many boats on the move.
Through
a lock and even more boats, including a weed cutting boat was dodging
here and there in the middle of the canal like a ‘water boatman’
insect collecting piles and piles of weeds. I hoped this wasn't going
to be a sign of things to come further along this canal.
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| Small locks were getting further apart |
The
canal had a different feel about it, there seemed more industry as
well as old industry, as we cruised along, then another lock and a
tunnel. Just before the tunnel there was an island in the middle of
the canal and the tunnel entrance was at an angle, making entering
the tunnel very tricky indeed with a big boat.
The
tunnel was no problem but this canal seemed to have some very tight
bends on it and then long straight sections. We approached another
junction and a massive cement works on our right hand side which was
a horrible blot on the landscape, and now turned right and on to the
Canal de L’Est Nord Branche.
The
canal became crystal clear and we could see the bottom, and the
weeds. This didn't bode well and I hoped that this wouldn't be the
norm for this canal. I suspect that it was the lime that had caused
the water to be so clear, you could see where it had leached in to
the canal and every structure along past the cement works was covered
in dust that had solidified over time.
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| The canal became crystal clear and we could see the bottom |
We
dragged the bottom of the canal, churning up weeds as we went, very
slow progress, and it felt even slower than it probably was. The
canal had some tight bends which went around the cement works, so it
meant it was in our company for quite a long time - like some alien
invasion that had devoured the hillside and surrounding area
After
that the canal carried on, opening up through countryside, and then
more industry, we were now following the river Meuse and from time to
time the river would join the canal and the navigation would get
wider and deeper. We were now on the Canal de Meurse, 88 km with 42
small locks, and amongst the names redolent of World War l.
We
passed through Verdun, a stunning place and somewhere that would have
been nice to stay and look around but, unfortunately, we did not have
the time. There were lots of barges tied up and the town seemed to
take more interest in its navigation. Bars and restaurants were
clearly visible by the cut, and judging by the boats it was a popular
spot.
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| Verdun and lots of moored boats |
The
canal really took on a different feel now, but I was being fooled
and, in a short distance, we were back on small canals, I wish it
would make its mind up as to what it is. Back out in to the
countryside again and the landscape was changing as we were slowly
going from fairly flat lands towards rolling countryside and
eventually in to valleys.
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| The stunning Ardennes |
We
meandered our way for what seemed like miles and miles towards the
Belgium border - entering the famous Ardennes region - and it was
breathtaking. Vast woodlands clung to the hillsides and down to the
canal on one side, with open views across farmland on the other.
Glimpses of small villages and the sound of the church bells wafting
across the fields, almost beckoning one to come to church, It was
really like going back in time.
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| Ambiorix on a village mooring |
Then
the navigation was becoming much bigger again and the small locks
were getting further apart. The buildings were also looking more
business-like rather than quaint cottages.
The
pace soon picked up as we were doing large river sections now, then
slowed down slightly by short canal sections that by passed weirs or
shallow sections of the river. We were in the middle of the Ardenne
proper now and almost totally engulfed by ancient woodland
interspersed with small towns and quaint villages - this was really
turning in to a stunning river.
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| Tight locks and lots of bridges |
Small
campsites started to appear and the river took on more recreational
use, water ski areas, jet skies, motorhome parks - we were now
heading in to Belgium on the river Meuse, the locks suddenly became
bigger and had lock keepers - we didn't have to operate them anymore
with our ‘garage door opener’.
We
also started to see much bigger commercial boats again - a sign that
we were heading for Namur
and lots more commercial traffic.
We
left France at Givet
and now we were in the French speaking Wallonia region of Belgium.
The navigable river Meurse,
also know as the Mass, is 115km long and stretches from the French
Border town of Givet all the way to the Netherlands border and
Maastricht, although we wouldn't be going all of the way as our
destination for now wasn't far away near Namur.
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| These English narrowboats get everywhere |
We
passed through stunning towns such as Dinant
with its fantastic churches and monuments, some incredible riverside
properties, massive rock formations and cliffs coming down to the
waters edge with people rock climbing. Roads and railways follow the
river’s course through the valley and this was the most spectacular
river section I have ever been on.
Finally
we came into to Namur,
which was where our crew would be leaving us, we had a farewell
dinner in a local restaurant and bid them farewell, we stayed in
Namur and had a couple of days off.
In
the next episode: The boatyard and time
to find out the truth about his historic Belgian barge
