From the Mediterranean to the English Channel by boat - Episode 7

TOWARDS THE ARDENNES

Simon Jenkins is a well known figure on the British canal system and has been a boater for decades, living on, working and owning boats and, for the last couple of decades, the managing director of Norbury Wharf on the Shropshire Union Canal.

He is back from the boat buying trip of a lifetime, bringing his first historic barge back to Belgium, from the shores of the Mediterranean. Last month he came up against manual locks which took him onto another of Europe’s major waterways and an angry Frenchman. Now he is approaching his destination and the Ardennes is coming up This is his story, in his own words.

The Canal de la Marne au Rhin is 289 km long and has 127 small locks, although we would only be doing a relatively short section of it and a few locks. As we turned onto this canal there were a lot more boats, and people boating. This was the first time we had seen so many boats on the move.

Through a lock and even more boats, including a weed cutting boat was dodging here and there in the middle of the canal like a ‘water boatman’ insect collecting piles and piles of weeds. I hoped this wasn't going to be a sign of things to come further along this canal.

Small locks were getting further apart

The canal had a different feel about it, there seemed more industry as well as old industry, as we cruised along, then another lock and a tunnel. Just before the tunnel there was an island in the middle of the canal and the tunnel entrance was at an angle, making entering the tunnel very tricky indeed with a big boat.

The tunnel was no problem but this canal seemed to have some very tight bends on it and then long straight sections. We approached another junction and a massive cement works on our right hand side which was a horrible blot on the landscape, and now turned right and on to the Canal de L’Est Nord Branche.

The canal became crystal clear and we could see the bottom, and the weeds. This didn't bode well and I hoped that this wouldn't be the norm for this canal. I suspect that it was the lime that had caused the water to be so clear, you could see where it had leached in to the canal and every structure along past the cement works was covered in dust that had solidified over time.

The canal became crystal clear and we could see the bottom

We dragged the bottom of the canal, churning up weeds as we went, very slow progress, and it felt even slower than it probably was. The canal had some tight bends which went around the cement works, so it meant it was in our company for quite a long time - like some alien invasion that had devoured the hillside and surrounding area

After that the canal carried on, opening up through countryside, and then more industry, we were now following the river Meuse and from time to time the river would join the canal and the navigation would get wider and deeper. We were now on the Canal de Meurse, 88 km with 42 small locks, and amongst the names redolent of World War l.

We passed through Verdun, a stunning place and somewhere that would have been nice to stay and look around but, unfortunately, we did not have the time. There were lots of barges tied up and the town seemed to take more interest in its navigation. Bars and restaurants were clearly visible by the cut, and judging by the boats it was a popular spot.

Verdun and lots of moored boats

The canal really took on a different feel now, but I was being fooled and, in a short distance, we were back on small canals, I wish it would make its mind up as to what it is. Back out in to the countryside again and the landscape was changing as we were slowly going from fairly flat lands towards rolling countryside and eventually in to valleys.

The stunning Ardennes

We meandered our way for what seemed like miles and miles towards the Belgium border - entering the famous Ardennes region - and it was breathtaking. Vast woodlands clung to the hillsides and down to the canal on one side, with open views across farmland on the other. Glimpses of small villages and the sound of the church bells wafting across the fields, almost beckoning one to come to church, It was really like going back in time.

Ambiorix on a village mooring

Then the navigation was becoming much bigger again and the small locks were getting further apart. The buildings were also looking more business-like rather than quaint cottages.

The pace soon picked up as we were doing large river sections now, then slowed down slightly by short canal sections that by passed weirs or shallow sections of the river. We were in the middle of the Ardenne proper now and almost totally engulfed by ancient woodland interspersed with small towns and quaint villages - this was really turning in to a stunning river.

Tight locks and lots of bridges

Small campsites started to appear and the river took on more recreational use, water ski areas, jet skies, motorhome parks - we were now heading in to Belgium on the river Meuse, the locks suddenly became bigger and had lock keepers - we didn't have to operate them anymore with our ‘garage door opener’.

We also started to see much bigger commercial boats again - a sign that we were heading for Namur and lots more commercial traffic.

We left France at Givet and now we were in the French speaking Wallonia region of Belgium. The navigable river Meurse, also know as the Mass, is 115km long and stretches from the French Border town of Givet all the way to the Netherlands border and Maastricht, although we wouldn't be going all of the way as our destination for now wasn't far away near Namur.

These English narrowboats get everywhere

We passed through stunning towns such as Dinant with its fantastic churches and monuments, some incredible riverside properties, massive rock formations and cliffs coming down to the waters edge with people rock climbing. Roads and railways follow the river’s course through the valley and this was the most spectacular river section I have ever been on.

Finally we came into to Namur, which was where our crew would be leaving us, we had a farewell dinner in a local restaurant and bid them farewell, we stayed in Namur and had a couple of days off.

In the next episode: The boatyard and time to find out the truth about his historic Belgian barge